Building Chief's Tridarka Raider - Sail Number 1

EC2008 Tridarka Raider CP1 to CP2

2008-06-19T14:47:10Z

The leg from CP1 to CP2 was the most fun but still had a lot of frustration too. The wind shifted and so the whole trip was beating into the wind. Also, I made some mistakes in rigging the boat which caused lots of problems that got worse the longer I was out.

Eventually my main sheet got so twisted that I could not let the sail in or out. Naturally this made tacking efficiently very difficult. Near the end of the clip you will hear ArchAngel comment on the set of my sail. My problem was I could not change the set of the sail. Of course I have fixed that rigging problem and now she beats into the wind just fine.

Some sections have a lot of wind noise. Also some sections shot at night are mostly dark. Bear with me. I'm still learning what works and what doesn't when filming in these conditions. I'll get better.

Tridarka Raider CP1 to CP2
http://chief.tridarkaraider.com/2008/06/17/ec2008-cp1-to-cp2.aspx

EC2008 Tridarka Raider Start to CP1

2008-06-18T10:07:53Z

There are a few short clips showing the launch followed by an 11 minute clip that chronicles the first leg of the 2008 Everglades Challenge. Towards the end of this 11 minute clip the video will go dark for awhile. The narration continues about getting hit in the head with a fast traveling boom.

This firs clip shows DaveOnCudjoe launcing right beside me. Notice the hard cranking as he kedges off the beach. While he is launching I am just waiting and watching the clock tick by.

DaveOnCudjoe Launching
http://chief.tridarkaraider.com/2008/06/17/ec2008-tridarka-raider-start-to-cp.aspx

After Dave launched it was my turn. Notice how easy the Tridarka Raider is launched using the 3 inflatable rollers. I actually have to hold the boat back so it won't roll into the water too fast. Unfortunately the video cuts off before I get to the water then the second clip is after the boat is off the beach. It only took a few seconds to launch.

Chief Launches

Tridarka Raider in the Water

This next clip was shot by Lugnut as I passed them a few hours after the start. Notice my super relaxed lounging position. This clip shows my fat profile and was the inspiration for changing from class 5 to class 2 for the next Everglades Challenge. Sailing is fun but paddling for 300 miles will inspire me to get back in shape.

Short Clip By Lugnut

So what follows is the insane misadventures on Leg 1 of the 2008 Everglades Challenge:

Fort Desoto to CP1 in the 2008 Everglades Challenge.

I did leave out some further adventures. After getting knocked in the head, I tried to go under a bridge and took a hard hit to the mast. After that I made my way to Bird Key and spent the night nursing my wounds. When I awoke I was high and dry on a mud bank. It took several hours for the tide to come in so I could make the last couple of miles to the CP.

With all my misadventures I think I was the last one to get into CP1 at about 11:00 on Sunday -- only 1 hour before the deadline. I made up a lot of my lost time on the next leg, but that is in the next video.

Sailing with Matt Layden

2008-05-30T08:57:14Z

Sorry for the long delay in posting. It has been a busy several weeks since the EC2008.

I got a chance to go out sailing in the Tridarka Raider with the designer, Matt Layden. I had fixed some of the issues discovered during her shakedown cruise.

The frustrating problem with the twisted main sheet was easily solved by changing the swivel blocks to the non-swivel type. What a difference!

We had a great day on the water up at Cedar Key. In the morning it was blowing hard so we launched into the protected basin and paddled under the bridge to a small beach. Once again the new cross beams worked perfectly and made extending the amas to their full width super easy. We sailed out with Matt at the tiller.

Matt sailed her on all points without any problems at all. My problems with setting the mainsail were non existent. She moved along very fast whether running, reaching, or beating. Tacking and jybing was easy. We also played with heaving-to and found that she behaved nicely for that. Matt was very happy with her speed, handling, and balance.

As the day went on the wind starting dying so we also got to sail her in very light winds. By this time several other sailboats were out and we easily caught and passed them. Matt agreed with me that a flexible roller furling head sail would be a good solution to my issues with setting and striking the current head sail. That is the only major change that is needed.

We also got to use the sculling oar to take a shallow channel right through the middle of an island just off Cedar Key. I did the sculling with Matt giving pointers. When we started into the channel I was sculling, but not very well. By the time we got to the other side I was much better and was starting to get the hang of it.

I took a few pages of notes while learning from the master. Except for the furling head sail all of it is very minor stuff. She's a great boat and will do very well in the next Everglades Challenge.

Everglades Challenge 2008 Trip Report

2008-04-17T16:34:57Z

It's been a few weeks since the Everglades Challenge fiasco and I've had time to nurse my ego back from the brink. I really blew it and have only myself to blame.

Basically stupid rigging mistakes caused my DNF. Here is a list:

I broke the rudder downhaul twice. It broke because I used plastic half-loop connectors instead of steel. What was I thinking????
The main sheet got itself so twisted that it became virtually impossible to adjust the sail.
Due to number 2 (I think) the sheet was jumping out of the cleat at inappropriate times.
The main sail set perfectly for running and reaching, but I could not get it to set properly for beating.
The screecher worked well for running and very broad reaching, but did not work well as the wind moved forward. I really needed a jib for beating into the wind. By the second day if was all head winds.
I didn't like the reefing setup. It worked, but I guess I've been spoiled by more user friendly systems.
I didn't like setting and striking the screecher. It was a pain in the a-- and kind of dangerous for a single hander. Again, I'm just spoiled.
The cockpit drain holes let in more water than they let out.

So what worked right?

I was very happy with the overall design of the hulls. The vaka (center hull) and the amas (outboard hulls) exceeded my expectations. She surfed well on all wave sizes I encountered. She was very easy to control and had good balance. There was no tendancy to bury the bow when surfing. Of course I didn't have any huge waves on this trip, but I think she would handle them just fine.

On the first day I got off the beach well after most of the fleet. Don't get me wrong. I didn't have any trouble what so ever launching, I just wanted to wait until most kayaks and canoes were out of the way. Also DaveOnCudjoe launched right in front of me and I had to wait until he got out of the way (no problem -- I wasn't in a hurry). Anyway, by the time I got going the fleet was well ahead by varying amounts. Most of the class 4 boats had about twice my sail area up. Even so I began to catch up and passed several boats. My skinny hulls were so easy to push that my speed was better than most. Of course, Lumpy and Bumpy along with FrontalLobotomy were much faster and I never saw them.

My overall speed on the first leg was really good. Even with my late start I got down to Placida by about 8PM. I didn't get into CP1 until the next day at 11:00 AM, but that is another story. My passage to CP2 was also pretty fast considering I left CP1 about 2:30 PM (the long delay in leaving is yet anther story). But I had passed many in the fleet when I arrived at CP2. The second leg was mostly beating so even with the issues I had by that time she was doing pretty good.

She was easy to steer and the simple Tiller Tamer I was using was able to hold her on course for long periods of time.

The amas had plenty of floatation which meant I did not have to reef when the wind came up. With my Dreamcatcher and BOSS or any monohull I would have had to reef in some of the conditions I encountered. In fact, I did reef her for a bit but then realized that I didn't need to and took it out.

She was very comfortable the whole trip. Especially after I figured out a nice backrest. It was like being in a recliner the whole trip.

Another thing I did was redesigned the entire aka (cross beam) system. The original system looked great and worked but it took too long to setup. Also, changing the configuration for CP1 would have been very difficult for one person. So the I spent the last week before the race working with Brian and Eli at JSI building a new one using sliding aluminum tubing. It far exceeded all expectations and worked great. Getting in and out of CP1 was very easy and the time to get the boat off the trailer and into the water is now much reduced. For a last minute change (literally) I couldn't have asked for a better result.

So what are the lessons learned?

Use stainless steel half-loops instead of plastic for anything taking a load.
Don't use swivel blocks for routing the main sheet.
Use a flapper valve on the outside of the cockpit drain holes, and carry stopper plugs for each side.
Consider changing the main sail.
Add a roller furling head sail.
Build in a nice backrest on both sides.
If I was building hull number 2, I would build in the side benches right from the start. The new aluminum cross beams allow the side benches to be permanant.
Use the new aluminum cross beams.

Thanks JSI

2008-01-06T07:05:21Z

I want to give many thanks to the New JSI for all the help they gave my when rigging the Tridarka Raider. Ken and Bill along with several others have provided much needed advice and support.

Check them out for all your WaterTribe needs. www.newJSI,com

She Sails!

2007-11-19T14:10:56Z

After being sick for about 3 weeks and too busy to have any fun prior to that, I finally got out for a sail yesterday. It was a beautiful day in Florida with barely a cloud in the sky, not too hot, not too cold -- and not much wind either. The weather report claimed 5-10 mph, but it seemed about 5 or less most of the time with an occasional puff up to 10.

The modifications I added to the trailer made solo launching possible. Even so it took about an hour to rig the boat at the ramp. This is fine if I was really a "coastal vagabond" but a bit long for a day sailor. At the Fort Desoto ramp there is a dock at the very end that almost nobody wants to use so I was able to rig the boat without being in anyone's way.

Launching from the dock was a tiny bit tricky because I had an onshore wind. I used my Greenland storm paddle to good effect to paddle away from the dock for enough room to raise the sail and get going. This was fine for the light winds I had, but probably would not have worked for 15 mph winds. I'm going to have to really think about alternate propulsion.

Once I cleared the dock the boat took off directly for Bunces Pass. She moved nicely in the light winds. The new yard made from oak made all the difference. The sail set properly and provided good drive. It would have been a really good day for the screacher, but I left it at home.

The new yard allows the sail to set properly.

Also, I added a very simple leeboard tie down. The lanyard is roughly 2 feet long and jams into a cleat on the leeboard rail. This cleat is one of those special break away cleats you can get at Duckworks. I also added some padding on the edge and the bottom of the rail. I was worried that the cleat was too close to the leeboard to be effective, but it worked really well. I don't know if it would work going 20 knots, but someday I hope to find out. This system does not provide any brake if the leeboard gets knock so I may need to add still more in this area. The padding on the underside of the leeboard guard should help.

You know it's a light wind day when a small bag of chips from your picnic lunch just sits there without being blown away.

A nice day on the water. I spent most of the day running at about 3-4 knots. I had occasional spurts a bit past 6 knots and a couple of times when I was only going about 2 knots. A kayak would have beaten me for sure on this day, but I'd make up for it when the wind came up.

A solo sailor needs to have at least some minimal self steering. This shows my quick setup which isn't really self steering, but I can let go of the tiller from time to time for cockpit chores and such. The standard Tiller Tamer line wasn't long enough to rig properly on my boat. The vaka hull is too narrow and the other tie in points were too wide. Even so it worked very well and held the boat on course for several minutes at a time. I'll have it properly rigged before the next trip.

I have some short video clips which I will try to add to YouTube in the next day or two.

She Floats!

2007-08-20T12:48:30Z

I won't call this a maiden voyage because we only had her out for a short trip at the Fort Desoto boat ramp. But at least we know she floats! Check it out ----
She looks good on the water.

Conditions were light to fluky in the bay between the Fort Desoto boat ramp and Bunces Pass. The tide had just started going out when we launched and was flowing pretty good when we had to beat back to the docks with very light winds. Gusting to 5 knots might be too optimistic.

Heading out toward the pass with virtually no heel.

The hiking benches are mounted on top of the akas in a temporary manner. I wanted to get out on the water a couple of times before deciding exactly how I wanted to mount them. There is lots of excess line coiled and not coile laying around. Again, I wanted to sail the boat before cutting lines to the proper length.

Here is one reason I want to test a bit before final rigging. Notice the yard is out of shape and the upper one third of the sail isn't really helping - maybe even robbing power from the bottom two thirds. This is because the yard I made is too wimpy and flexes too much. Also, perhaps I tied it too tight to the top of the sail. The loose line you see hanging from the top of the mast is the headsail halyard that does double duty as a lazy jack when the headsail is not being used. With such light winds we could really have used the head sail, but I left it home to keep the first trip simple and work out all the rigging details for everything else first.

The shorter lines between the jaws are for tying the sail to the mast. I didn't actually use them for two reasons: I forgot all about them and the wind was so light it wasn't necessary. They look kind of messy, but they will be fine when I trim the and tie them properly.

Why am I always chasing the kayaks?

Tim the Carpenter is telling me to try to keep the speed down - just kidding.

This was taken out the back window of the van and the way home.

It was a good first sail even though she didn't get to show off yet.

Final Rigging

2007-08-17T08:22:35Z

Finally I am in the final stages of rigging the boat. With any luck at all I will be in the water by Sunday, August 19, 2007. It's taken much longer than I had hoped but still pretty fast considering the complexities of a trimaran - let's hope those complexities turn into sea worthiness, speed, and comfort!

On August 1 I closed out my shop and trailered the boat home. I really enjoyed having this shop and the people in the other shops around me were really great and provided lots of help and advice. Many thanks to Eric the German, Eric the Pole, and Tim the Carpenter for all the help and assistance they provided - and for the beers we shared.

Of course final rigging is also taking longer than I had hoped. The sail arrived months ago, but I am just now getting around to rigging it for the boat. Each of the three battens requires a set of jaws. These jaws were made from 1/8" by 1" 6061T6 aluminum. This aluminum has to be covered with something to protect the sail cloth and the mast. I purchased some nylon tubing and cut it and burned holes in it as shown below.

The tubing slides over the aluminum strap as follows:

Six of these are required for the 3 battens. The two holes at the top require holes burned into the sails and holes drilled through the battens to connect one side to the other.

Taking a hot soldering gun to an expensive sail isn't a fun way to spend the evening! But it worked out OK and all holes were burned without incident.

The soldering gun has a story behind it. Take heed if you need a soldering gun any time soon. I had a soldering gun for something like three decades, but it recently died after accidental exposure to a few rain storms. I went to Home Depot and bought their "heavy duty" model to replace it, but it would not get hot enough to melt nylon and dacron line like I was used to with my old gun. I took it back and the guy at Home Depot whispered to me that Sears had a 450 watt model.

I went to Sears and they did have a model that went to 450 during heatup and then cut back to 150 watts after the tip reached "operating temp of 900 degrees." I didn't like the sound of that, but they had another "heavy duty" gun that was a 250/150 watt model. Pull the trigger all the way back and you get 250 watts steady. This sounded like it might do the trick with a tip temp of 1100 degrees. The gun you see me abusing the sail with is the 250/150 model from Sears for $32 and it worked great for all burning and melting purposes.

The plan is to finish rigging the sail and the hiking benches on Saturday and then first launch on Sunday weather permitting.

Mast, Hiking Benches, and Tiller

2007-08-07T16:29:56Z

I finished the mast by installing the lightning rod and masthead fittings. I made another jig so I could sand down one side of the masthead fitting.

Then I installed the long lightning rod.

This lightning rod runs the length of the mast and ends at the base plug.

It also doubles as a defensive weapon against whales

This shows everything complete with the bail installed for the headsail block. The lightning rod is held at the top by the pin and a bolt for the bail. The rod runs thru some pipe insulation so it won't slap against the mast. Note that the lower bolt is being cut off flat at the nut.

Then it was on to the hiking benches.

Here they are having some of the underside supports bonded on.

And this shows the tiller mock up being laminated at the same time. This tiller is just a quick version to get the tiller rise the way I want it. After the correct height has been determined, I'll make a nice laminated tiller. This one will work in the mean time but it will look a bit funny.

Road Trip!

2007-08-07T16:17:52Z

No, it's not what you think. The boat did not get in the water just yet. But I had to take the trailer to Magic Tilt to see what was needed to customize it for the Tridarka Raider. Then I took it over to JSI for some rigging input.

Slowly she pokes her head out of the shop.

And gets hooked to the van for a ride to the shop.

This happened a couple weeks ago, but I have been "busy" with other matters lately.

Almost there . . .

2007-07-23T16:43:38Z

I got lots of small stuff done over the weekend.

You know I love jigs, right? Well, this is a jig to drill a hole through the nut and bolt that is the leeboard pivot. The nut fits in the cutout in the lower leeboard guard. I boke the cobalt Ryobi bit,l but the Dewells cobalt bit cut through the stainless like butter. My jig worked really well for this. I used WD40 since I didn't have any cutting oil.

This is the result. The hole through the nut and bolt is in exactly the right place for a snug but not too tight fit. But is the fender washer big enough???? I'm still trying to figure out the Tiller Tamer type device that goes on the top end of the leeboard.

I started laminating the side benches.

This shows two jobs at once. I drilled the rudder pivot hole oversize and then filled with high density epoxy material. When it's cured I'll drill the 3/8" hole for the rudder pivot.

The base of the mast is shown with the aluminum for the lightning protection system.

I sealed the mast tube into the mast step in the cargo holds using clear silicone sealer. That was the last step before attaching the cargo hatches in the cockpit. These were sealed with white silicone.

Then I sealed the teak collar arount the mast tube using clear silicone sealer. I used silicone for these jobs because the mast tube does not need any strength other than the step itself and the deck. The silicone seals for water only and I can still get the tube out if I ever have a need.

CP1 Filter Mode

2007-07-16T08:47:00Z

As many of you know checkpoint 1 has a nasty little filter (for class 4) comprised of a low bridge with pilings about 10 feet apart. This means the mast has to be dropped and many multihulls have to somehow reduce their overall beam. The Tridarka Raider has a normal beam a bit wider that 12 feet. Also the beam has be reduced to less than 8.5 feet for trailering. We satisfied these limits by designing split aka.

Here is how the boat looks with the amas shoved in a few feet on each side.

The PVC pipe is just a mock up of the side supports. The overall width in this mode is 8 feet 2 inches. Note that the boat can be paddled in this configuration. In good weather and with a reef in she can even be sailed. This might be useful in the narrow sections of a river.

Here's a view from the front quarter.

Mounting Akas and Amas

2007-07-13T13:29:00Z

The last couple of days have been interesting. The vaka deck is rigged and now it's time to assemble the boat using the akas and amas. I have to do a temporary lashing and make sure all parts are in their proper place. Then it's time to add the final componets to the akas for lashing.

Here is a frontal shot showing the akas and amas in place and properly lined up. The specs call for 69 inches centerline to centerline for aft end of each ama. Then 68 inches centerline to centerline for the bow. Each ama is tipped out 6 degrees.

With everything about as perfect as I can get it I marked the location for the lashing cleats and some locating blocks. As soon as these are installed I can paint the akas (clear coat) and the boat itself is ready.

Here's another shot at a bit of an angle. The line on the floor is just waiting to be cut into lengths for the remaining lashings.

The trailer needs a few custom additions before I take this baby out on the road.

Rigging the Deck

2007-07-09T12:42:10Z

Finally I completed rigging the deck.

First, I made a pattern and then placed the rigging components on the pattern. The bow is at 12 and the downhaul is at 6. At about 1:30 is one side of the boom vang loop on the inside circle. On the outside circle is one of the halyard blocks. At 10:30 is the other side of the boom vang loop and the other halyard block.

I marked the locations and moved the components for drilling.

Even though I marked both sides of the components it's I good idea to drill the first hole from the pattern and then drill the second hole using the component as a guide.

Alll the holes have been drilled and I'm ready to mount everything.

The components are mounted around the mast tube. A 15 minute job that took me a few days to complete!

Vaka Painted and Amas Done

2007-06-26T11:22:02Z

She's lookin goooood!

OK, I'm not the best painter in the world, but I call this a Jamaican style paint job. Picture a fisherman on the beach painting his boat. If he doesn't fish his family doesn't eat. So he paints the boat and doesn't worry too much about the perfect fairing job. That's my boat. Even so, I am very happy with the final results. The boat looks pretty sharp. And thanks to my buddy, Tim the Carpenter, the line between the hull and deck actually looks good (it looked pretty bad till he fixed it).

This shows the hull after three coats of Orcas White over the primer coats.

After painting we flipped the hull onto the trailer.

Lat night I took her outside for the first time to check the fit of the mast - perfect.

She looks good from the side too.

Did I mention the amas are done! The deck hardware and hatches are installed and they are ready for the water.

I installed the deck hatches last night. The next step is all the deck hardware and rigging.

Vaka Hull Painted

2007-06-22T08:55:00Z

Last night I got three top coats of paint on the vaka hull. The paint directions say that object should not be above 90 degrees so I was at the very limits. The paint was drying almost as fast as I could roll it on. I just kept going as fast as I could.

The results were pretty good. I plan to flip the boat back to right side up on Saturday and then paint the deck with clear top coat.

Painting Progress

2007-06-18T09:12:00Z

I made pretty good progress painting the hulls over the weekend.

The vaka now has 4 layers of primer on the hull. I have to give the primer a few days to fully cure before I can finish painting with Orcas White. The directions say it can take up to 7 days, but the shop is sooooo hot during the day that my guess is I can top coat it Tuesday or so.

The ama hulls got three coats of clear gloss and look pretty good. Of course they would have looked a lot better if I had taken more time to get a nice finish on the epoxy. I plan to flip them over and paint the decks tonight. If all goes well, I can finish rigging the amas tomorrow and they will be good to go.

Amas and Vaka in Final Prep

2007-06-13T08:41:00Z

Both vaka and amas are finally done. Well, not 100% done since I still need to paint and install deck hardware. But I finally finished installing the aka mounts so the amas are ready for final prep and painting. The aka mounts were installed on the vaka a couple weeks ago.

Yesterday I started sanding the hulls and should be able to finish that prep work today. Painting will start Thursday I hope. If all goes well I should start installing deck hardware the following Monday. That's a big IF though.

Mounting the Amas

2007-06-04T09:59:00Z

Progress has been slow due to factors beyond my control and having nothing to do with the actual progress.

The good news is that the vaka is done except for final painting.

I'm now working on mounting the amas.

This shows the akas lashed to the vaka and the port ama being held in position with some cargo straps. I am setting up the ama fore and aft and at the correct angle of 6 degrees from vertical. Once the ama is in position I can mark the location of the mounting blocks.

The next step is to bond the mounting blocks to the amas. I need some lag bolts with lengths not available locally so will order online. While that is going on I will start painting the final coat on the vaka.

Making the Aka Mounts

2007-05-11T15:31:36Z

One of the last components to install on the vaka before final painting of the hull and deck are the aka mounts. These are fairly easy to build but it took me a lot of "thinking" to get it done with everything aligned properly. (At least I hope it's aligned properly.)

First I laminated three pieces of 1x4 oak into a block. And drilled the bolt holes. Notice that the holes are not in the center of the block but are set off to one side. This is because the blocks are mounted on the edge of the deck and the hull angles in. If the bolt holes are in the center they will go through the hull.

I don't show it but I mocked up one of these with a 2x4. The angles and hole locations are critical and a 2x4 is cheap -- oak isn't.

I was paranoid about drilling through the hull so I got the bright idea to put my finger on the back side. The idea was that I would feel the vibration and know when to stop or if I was going through the hull. Not such a good idea. The drill bit "caught" and pulled itself through before I could react. Here is the result --

It went in pretty deep but not into the bone. I eventually lost that flap of skin. At least I didn't drill through the hull

Tim the Carpenter watched me do it and laughed the whole time he was giving me the official carpenter's bandage - paper towel and blue masking tape.

I put some blood on the deck where this aka mount goes for good luck.

I cut the bases at the proper angle so the mounts would stand up straight. After mounting and measuring the slots are cut for the akas. I used multiple passes of the table saw with the blade set at the correct depth to make the slots.

The akas fit perfectly and are flat and at 90 degrees to the center line of the boat.

Before permanent mounting I used the band saw and belt sander to round off the edges.

The only difference for the aka mounts on the amas is that the bottom of the slot has to match the slope of the akas. I made a jig by ripping a 2x4 at a 17 degree angle. By leaning the oak block back against the 2x4 I cut an angles slot by making straight passes across the saw blade. It worked like a charm. Watch out on something like this. This is not the safest thing to do in the shop and I have already demonstrated my capacity for blood shed.

Since making these mounts I have bonded them to the deck. You'll see that picture in a subsequent post since my camera ran out of juice.